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What Type of Soil do you have?

 

Soil is a gardener's most precious resource and if well looked after it will produce bigger crops and healthier plants that last longer. To ensure your soil gives you the best results possible you need to understand it.

 

Soil is made up of two layers, the topsoil and the subsoil.

 

The topsoil is the most fertile and is generally a darker colour than the subsoil. Most of the plants roots are in this layer, only the bigger roots reach down to the subsoil.

 

Although the subsoil is not as important as the topsoil it greatly affects how well plants grow. Compacted subsoil means that roots can't penetrate and water can often sit on the "pan" resulting in water logging. It is sometimes necessary to break up the subsoil before beginning work on the overall condition of the topsoil.

 

 

As most of the plants roots are in the topsoil it is important to establish its characteristics. The Soil Texture refers to the proportion of particles making up the soil. There are three particles; clay, silt and sand.

 

A high proportion of any one of these particles determines the overall soil texture. A mixture of all three results in loam which is the best soil to have. There are advantages and disadvantages to all but loamy soils.

 

Soils high in clay tends to drain slowly and becomes waterlogged making is difficult to work and slow to warm up in spring. In summer it dries with a hard crust making it very dry and liable to cracking. On the other hand it retains nutrients so is the most fertile.

 

Sandy soils have large particles and gaps which allow water and nutrients to quickly drain away; but it is quick to warm up in spring.

 

Silty soils have fine particles which bind together; this makes it difficult to work with unless lots of organic matter is incorporated.

 

To determine the texture of your soil carry out the following test.

Take a small amount of soil and wet it. Knead lightly in the hand to form a smooth paste. If it rolls easily and become shiny it is clay. If it feels gritty and won't form a ball shape it is sand. If it feels sticky but gritty and breaks up when rolled then its loam. As well as the three main types there can be combinations such as a clay loam which will roll easily but feels rough.

 

 

There is little you can do to change the soil texture but there are plants to suit all textures of soil, it is just a matter of working with it. However, the soil structure can be changed.

 

Soil Structure is the condition of the soil i.e. the combination of the particles and organic matter forming the soil crumbs. For plants to thrive they need a good balance of air and water, the introduction of organic matter such as well rotted manure or leafmould, is beneficial to all soil types. It will break up clay soil to improve drainage and will bind together sandy soil to improve water retention.

 

You will also need to consider your soil's pH which indicates the acidity of the soil. Most plants will be quite happy in a Neutral or slightly acid or alkaline soil with pH of between 6 and 8. If your soil is 7.5 or more then your soil is alkaline, a pH of less than 7 means your soil is acid and you will be able to grow plants such as Hydrangea and Rhododendron. You can easily test the acidity of your soil by using a simple Soil Testing Kit which are available from most garden centres, just follow the instructions on the box.

 

The best way to improve your garden soil is to increase the amount of humus it contains. This can be done by either adding well-rotted organic matter or by growing special green manures. Plants can also be given a boost by applying fertilisers.

 

All soils can be improved by adding well-rotted organic matter; but the effects depend on the type of soil you have. On clay soil it aids drainage and aeration, on sandy soil it helps retain moisture and boosts fertility and on silty soil it helps prevent compaction.

 

Organic matter is best applied either in autumn or spring. Now let's get your soil ready.

 

 


This site was last updated on 12 December 2007 | Copyright 27 Linda Peppin

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